Broken rear anti-roll bar bushing brackets - ? cause of clunking

Jams

Jams

Regular Member
Joined
Sep 19, 2019
Points
24
Location
Cardiff, Wales
Model of Z
Z3 3.0i
Hi all,

I have been trying to diagnose the renowned clunking sound when releasing the clutch in 1st/2nd/reverse and whlst doing this, noticed my rear ARB bushes brackets/supports were totally rusted and seem unfunctional. As you can see in the photos, one side even looks like its had a cheap fix in the past where they've welded a small plate on the chassis to reinforce everything.

Going to need a repair...however does anyone have any photos of what a normal, un-rusted chassis in this area looks like please? The photo of interest would ideally be without the sway bar and without the bush bracket on to see what the 'chassis-end' looks like.

Does anyone have any experience of repairing these?
 

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They are shot looks like they are rotted through i can not find any other pic showing it than the ine above but if no one can help i can always get under the car and take some.
 
Hi @Mazza - that's great - thank you so much. I saw your first photo on one of your posts, but then wanted to see the 'underside' of the bush support without it attached to the car.

Any ideas on a possible fix? I presume I would need to get the attachment fabricated and welded onto the car after all the rusted rot has been removed.
 
I would imagine so the brackets are possibly availible from Bmw but if not a resident breaker may help you there they may be able to get the mounts cut out for you to get cleaned up and welded back in :thumbsup:
 
Hasn't @Lee worked on that "clonk" a while back? I'm sure I saw a thread related to the Diff a while ago, but I can't seem to find it again...
 
buze said:
Hasn't @Lee worked on that "clonk" a while back? I'm sure I saw a thread related to the Diff a while ago, but I can't seem to find it again...
Click to expand...

Yeah the common clunk can be found at the Diff but this car might have quite a few clunks judging by the photos.
 
Bloomin 'eck where you been the last 6 months Ant? How's the new venture?
 
Heres a couple of mine, you can see they have side tabs that will be spot welded, I am currently breaking a 1.9 but dont know how good they are
mount2.webp
mount1.webp
mount.webp
 
@Sean d - sorry thought I’d replied already. If you’re breaking a1.9 please let me know if you’re willing to sell the ARB supports as it looks like they’re the same as mine. Cheers.

Thanks all for the help. Never thought rust would play such a big part in my life!
 
Jams said:
@Sean d - sorry thought I’d replied already. If you’re breaking a1.9 please let me know if you’re willing to sell the ARB supports as it looks like they’re the same as mine. Cheers.

Thanks all for the help. Never thought rust would play such a big part in my life!
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Sorry but the car has gone for scrap
 
Not on a Z, I've repaired brackets like that using box section, it's easy to cut to shape and the flat section with a couple of holes drilled in can be self tapped in position, then nudged until aligned and welded.
 
Cardboard aided design is your friend.That, and measuring about a dozen times before drilling/cutting anything. Best tip I can give is clean all the underseal off to metal before you start. That gives you somewhere to put points to measure from that are easily visible. Oh, and buy about 5 markers, I always manage to lose some, stand on some or let them dry out.
 
IainP said:
Cardboard aided design is your friend.That, and measuring about a dozen times before drilling/cutting anything. Best tip I can give is clean all the underseal off to metal before you start. That gives you somewhere to put points to measure from that are easily visible. Oh, and buy about 5 markers, I always manage to lose some, stand on some or let them dry out.
Click to expand...
Not being a welder, I often wonder how critical it is to get stuff like replacement ARB and diff brackets lined up to how they were previously. Does it have to be in exactly the same orientation, or is there a bit of wiggle room?

If it has to be super exact, do you then take and triangulate lots of measurements from different fixed points?
 
The rear ARB brackets are only held on by 4 small spot welds, very poor design again by BMW, I had one pull off on the M in Scotland, not because of rust, but probably exuberance :whistle: got it seam welded back on by a local garage for peanuts, must remember to get the other side seam welded too. ;)
 
"is there a bit of wiggle room?

If it has to be super exact, do you then take and triangulate lots of measurements from different fixed points?"

For an anti roll bar as long as it's within a couple mm should be fine. I'm the kind of finicky perfectionist that straightens pictures when at someone's house.
 
Updating an older post - managed to get OEM brackets from this site https://www.schmiedmann.com/ - based in Denmark and about £20 delivery to UK, but literally has I think every part you could want.

Turns out it wasn't the cause of the clunk, but I think I found the culprit in a very loose rear axle bushing - about 2cm of play!
 
Do you have a link to the rear anti roll bar brackets, I need a couple but can't find them on the websute
 
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