Small block chevy v8 swapped z3

Mine is a wide body running 295s. Will try and find my backspacing for the wheels and send a picture when I can.

It will be well worth the time converting it to a wide body in the future.
Thank you for this, and I definitely agree the long term goals are that and a hard top when I can swing it down the line
 
To those of you mentioning widebody I’m actually picking up this entire setup most likely next week when he gets back in town so this already complex thread might end up having some body conversion stuff in it as of next week lol
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Here is the picture of the back of mine with 295s fitted. The wheels are 18x10 with an ET of 47 but that wont fit standard wide bodies. I narrowed my rear track by using Z4 hubs so its 44mm narrower overall if I remeber correctly.
Using the Z4 hubs gave me more wheel and disc options. I am now running vented discs off a 750i with Brembo calipers off a Porsche in the rear.

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Here is the picture of the back of mine with 295s fitted. The wheels are 18x10 with an ET of 47 but that wont fit standard wide bodies. I narrowed my rear track by using Z4 hubs so its 44mm narrower overall if I remeber correctly.
Using the Z4 hubs gave me more wheel and disc options. I am now running vented discs off a 750i with Brembo calipers off a Porsche in the rear.

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I love the stance of wide body pre-facelift Z3

:scorecard:
 
Here is the picture of the back of mine with 295s fitted. The wheels are 18x10 with an ET of 47 but that wont fit standard wide bodies. I narrowed my rear track by using Z4 hubs so its 44mm narrower overall if I remeber correctly.
Using the Z4 hubs gave me more wheel and disc options. I am now running vented discs off a 750i with Brembo calipers off a Porsche in the rear.

View attachment 346319
That is genuinely so good looking definitely helping sell me on the conversion besides what you necessarily see in the photos and the wheel tubs any thoughts on what else I’ll end up needing?
 
That is genuinely so good looking definitely helping sell me on the conversion besides what you necessarily see in the photos and the wheel tubs any thoughts on what else I’ll end up needing?
Widebody sills will be required and a fuel filler neck if you were ever to use the original fuel tank.

From your pics it looks like the trunk lid release for the M is on the opposite side to a standard Z3 so you may need a different lock mechanism / actuators if not already in there.
 
The M uses the narrow arms braced. The arms aren’t ‘narrow’, or ‘wide’, it’s the stub on the end which is shorter, or longer. Easy to brace, there are kits of laser cut steel, or just make your own. Www.garagistic.com or similar, anyone who does E30 stuff, same arms.
Mine
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You’ll have the small diff, plenty of e30 turbo running it without too many problems.
You may want to upgrade the front brakes, plenty of cheap part options.
 
The M uses the narrow arms braced. The arms aren’t ‘narrow’, or ‘wide’, it’s the stub on the end which is shorter, or longer. Easy to brace, there are kits of laser cut steel, or just make your own. Www.garagistic.com or similar, anyone who does E30 stuff, same arms.
Mine
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e30 turbo running it without too many problems.
You may want to upgrade the front brakes, plenty of cheap part options.
I definitely planned on at least replacing the pads but I really wanna see how the changed weight distribution affects it especially since I’m running it from the vacuum of the carb and since it’s a much larger displacement possibly might make the brake pedals way more sensitive
 
From your pics it looks like the trunk lid release for the M is on the opposite side to a standard Z3 so you may need a different lock mechanism / actuators if not already in there.

Good spot 👍 . . . Or. hang on, I just remember. The mechanism in the boot lid is in the centre so there'd be rod linkage across from one side or the other to the centre anyway. I'd check that before ordering more lock related stuff.

But are the TrunkLid and lights really necessary? I suppose the trunk lid is necessary if the licence plate is changing from bumper to bootlid but I didn't think the shape was any different so why would the lights change?
 
Good spot 👍 . . . Or. hang on, I just remember. The mechanism in the boot lid is in the centre so there'd be rod linkage across from one side or the other to the centre anyway. I'd check that before ordering more lock related stuff.

But are the TrunkLid and lights really necessary? I suppose the trunk lid is necessary if the licence plate is changing from bumper to bootlid but I didn't think the shape was any different so why would the lights change?
Luckily the trunk comes with the lock and mechanism itself I’d likely just have to end up ordering a new matching lock cylinder and key
 
Not sure if more vacuum would make a difference.
The 1.9 uses solid discs, the 2.8 vented. 286mm both. Just a parts swap to go to 300, or 325mm.
300 are the same width, 325 5mm thicker. I have all the parts numbers somewhere. I got calipers and carriers for my 300 conversion from the States,way cheaper than here.
Also, replace your front lollipop bushes for solid, will make a big difference with the extra weight. Concentric if a street car, offset if you plan on 'spirited' driving, gives more caster which gains a better camber curve in corners, though it results in very slightly heavier steering because of the increased grip.
 
The difference
Narrow wing, Wide bumper.
The internet states only a 25mm/1” difference but on mine it’s almost 35mm at the wing edge.View attachment 346333

Are you replying to me? I know the wings are different - I was asking if the trunk lid is a different shape (apart from the licence plate)?
 
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@Marquisz3 In your engine pictures it looks like the engine is tilted over to one side - is that just an optical illusion? Or was it just like that while you were doing your mounts?
So inititial mock up it was definitely tilted but I redid the right side motor and trans mount somewhere around halfway and it’s pretty level now that being said keep in mind the car is still on jack stands and one side is slightly higher but the engine is about as level as you could eyeball it right now (photo from a bit of progress back but after when I adjusted it)
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So inititial mock up it was definitely tilted but I redid the right side motor and trans mount somewhere around halfway and it’s pretty level now that being said keep in mind the car is still on jack stands and one side is slightly higher but the engine is about as level as you could eyeball it right now (photo from a bit of progress back but after when I adjusted it)View attachment 346335
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Also I found the most American fitting solution for my traction issues (haven’t put the front set on but I do have matching wheels and a set of tires for the front)
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I’ll send more pics in the morning but hoosier drag radials and style 32 wheels clear PERFECT

also picked up my driveshaft but that being said I’ve been up since 3am and need to get some sleep so I’ll get it on the road with that tomorrow
 

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Welp hit a slight snag gonna need the driveshaft shortened by an inch but in the meantime I reinforced the bottom portion of the sub frame, put a new diff bushing in
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Over the next few days while I wait on the driveshaft I’m mainly just gonna tidy up and mount the front wheels
 
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Realized I hadn’t posted updated photos of the engine bay yet, drop off the driveshaft to get corrected tomorrow, measure once cut 4 times because you got it wrong the first three like they always say, list of things pretty much is just that and I plan to get it weighed and dynod over the week once it’s on the road, also have new headlights otw and gonna fix the bumper gap and repaint it once my oem coded paint is in
 
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