Hello from new member

D0nni

Zorg Legend
Supporter
British Zeds
Joined
Jun 24, 2020
Points
65
Location
N.Ireland
Model of Z
2.8
Hi everyone,

New member to the forum.

On my 2nd z3. Had a 1.9 which unfortunately lost an argument with a tree after hitting slip on the road. Gladly I was unscathed but sadly the zed didnt walk away as cleanly.

I've since bought a 1999 2.8 artic silver. Only home with me at the weekend.

First thought is the difference in acceleration is night and day.

2nd is I got it quite cheap (cheap for 2.8) so I'm aware it's coming with faults. One which came as an advisory on the MOT was a corroded fuel line.

I didnt think it was as bad until I got it in the garage and it was actually leaking (surely that is a fail?!) But anyway. Instead of going down the painstaking of sourcing a new one I depressurised the line. Cut it at the leaks and replaced the length of metal with a rubber fuel hose. Jubilee clipping either end. This has "resolved" the issue but I'm questioning if its MOT passable or just a good macgyver until I source a reasonable fuel line?

Sills are another thing which are going to be coming off along with the drivers wing. Hoping the inner sills aren't too bad. That's something I'm going to have to check and deal with over the winter. Father in law has been a fabricator his whole life and enjoys working at cars so he'll be a excellent but hopfully unrequired resource.

Another thing I've noticed is the ASC button doesnt seem to be working. I've noticed the light doesnt come on on the initial start so possible the bulbs blew/been removes so to check that but failing that. What troubleshoot method should I approach with this?

Bar those issues all seems to be good. Clicks on start but I'm assuming dead battery. Quick jump starts it and after a run starts again but it's not holding charge over any length of time.

Any tips and advice always welcome

IMG-20200622-WA0004.webp
 
Perfectly adequate repair on the fuel line as long as it doesn't leak with engine running or not and that it is secure to the floor. The steel pipe connects to the fuel filter in the exact same fashion. If it is the fuel line from the filter to the rear of the car then get some 10mm copper pipe and make your own up.

Tony.

ps. Welcome to the forum from me near Lincoln.
 
Cheers t-tony,

I had read that myself so that's why I went for that approach in the interim anyway and just monitor it. It worked on the test run with no leaks so happy with that so far. Long term it will be either replace the whole thing with rubber or get a new steel one. I believe the steel replacement is not exactly on the cheap side of 100.
 
Thanks Andy.

Meant to say. Northern ireland based. I got a video walk of the car and got it transported. Was a gamble I know but I've found enjoyment from restoring these cars along with driving them so thought be a nice winter project.

Has good solid roof, leather interior, 115k miles. Starts straight away when gets the jump (needs battery replaced) and runs without issue. Gears are nice. Clutch is nice. Good throttle response. Just needs a little tlc and attention.

Have a dry solid garage so least I know while I have it it shall see little to no rain.

Brother who moved to america laughed and said enjoy your car for those 10 days of summer ireland gets
 
Thanks Andy.

Meant to say. Northern ireland based. I got a video walk of the car and got it transported. Was a gamble I know but I've found enjoyment from restoring these cars along with driving them so thought be a nice winter project.

Has good solid roof, leather interior, 115k miles. Starts straight away when gets the jump (needs battery replaced) and runs without issue. Gears are nice. Clutch is nice. Good throttle response. Just needs a little tlc and attention.

Have a dry solid garage so least I know while I have it it shall see little to no rain.

Brother who moved to america laughed and said enjoy your car for those 10 days of summer ireland gets
I feel your pain with the weather mate, those Lakes don't get filled my magic :arghh:
 
Hi and :welcome: from Surrey good luck with the Z, sounds like a nice project.
 
Cheers t-tony,

I had read that myself so that's why I went for that approach in the interim anyway and just monitor it. It worked on the test run with no leaks so happy with that so far. Long term it will be either replace the whole thing with rubber or get a new steel one. I believe the steel replacement is not exactly on the cheap side of 100.

If when doing any repairs you find a need to drop the rear beam out that's the time to change the fuel pipe. As I said 10mm copper is easy to form by hand and if you have a brake pipe flaring tool you can make a raised end the save against rubber hose sliding off.

Tony.
 
Hi and :welcome: from Surrey good luck with the Z, sounds like a nice project.

Hi thanks. Yeah the drivers side sill has me the most worried. It's been isopon from top to bottom. I'm hoping it's just to hide the outer sill rust (which the seller "assurs is the case" but the angle grinder could be coming out in the winter with some good old fashioned welding.

Either way it's not going anywhere and just going to keep plugging away at it gradually. Hopefully have a real solid we runner come next summer once get the time to work at it.

For now its going to get a good deep clean and polish and just be enjoyed and do we fault finding mission on it creating a shopping list as I go.

If get it under the 3k total budget price I'll be a happy man plus the work is enjoyable, like a good distraction lol
 
Gonna need to get new badges all around just to give it the appearance it's on it's way.

Noticed with the last one all the we small touches really go a long way as to eye candy appeal lol

Also first time with a z3 getting classic insurance (1.9 then this one) £180 for 3500 miles and £20 for the change over. Comical when ya consider the speed of these wee animals lol
 
Hi, welcome from Mansfield.

Nothing like a good project :thumbsup:
 
Hi and welcome from London good luck with the project it looks nice
 
Hi @D0nni, :welcome: to the forum from me too in Staffordshire. Good luck with your project:thumbsup:
 
Hello and welcome to the forum :thumbsup:
 
Hi and welcome from me in Scotland :welcome:.
Re the fuel line as an mot tester the repair you have described would be fine for an mot.

As for the asc light take it onto a loose surface if the asc is working it will restrict the wheel spin try switch see if makes difference will let you know if its a bulb before you start to delve in further.
 
Hi and welcome from me in Scotland :welcome:.
Re the fuel line as an mot tester the repair you have described would be fine for an mot.

As for the asc light take it onto a loose surface if the asc is working it will restrict the wheel spin try switch see if makes difference will let you know if its a bulb before you start to delve in further.

Hi Stevo,

Thanks that's good to hear re the fuel line. Puts my mind at rest a bit.

Regarding the ASC it's hard for me to tell tbh cause I'm not used to a 2.8 petrol engine so I dont know how much wheelspin to expect if I try to make it spin. The 1.9 was the first "large petrol engine" I had. And the ASC on and off on it was night and day to the point of no wheel spin to i was on driving on ice (when purposely trying to)

Should I expect similar with this? Or should I expect some spin without it off and just uncontrollable spin with it on? Or when off should I feel the ASC engaging itself trying to stop the spinning?
 
Hi and a big :welcome: to the forum from Southport. Good luck with the project, you sound like me, love to get your hands dirty!
 
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